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"Slow Screw"

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The same distinction between sound and showy billiards is manifest in the use of slow screw. If you play hard enough, you can depend on screw taking effect at any range, but when you play a slow shot, screw soon vanishes, most probably because the friction of the cloth exhausts it as the ball moves slowly forward. You must be very careful about this. Slow screw, unless you have exceptional cue-power, should not be relied upon if your ball has a fraction more than two feet to travel before the object-ball is struck, and many players will find about eighteen inches to be the limit for them. It is very showy to bring off lovely slow screws at distances which verge on the impossible, but it is more sound to keep well within your individual cue-power as regards slow screw, and always to play with strength if you are in the least doubt on the matter.

Figure 53 shows what I mean. Here the angle is too wide for an ordinary loser played plain-ball. If you use screw, or screw and side together, you will drive the object-ball into baulk unless you play slowly enough to prevent this from happening. The balls are too far apart for a slow screw to be depended upon, so you play a fullish shot very hard at the object-ball, and force the cue-ball into the pocket. Here, I may explain, you should stiffen your cue-action, as you want to produce a certain amount of the "stab" effect previously discussed. By playing in this manner, you make the pocket easily enough, and retain position because the force of your stroke destroys the normal angle of rebound and brings the object-ball off the cushion as shown in my diagram, thus keeping it out of baulk most effectively. It is worth remembering that force will always act in this way when a ball is sent against the cushion at angles similar to the one in my diagram-you may leave a ball in baulk through forgetting about this when playing at the other end of the table.

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